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Christian Dior liked architectural clothes too - witness his New Look. But the modern day Dior customer has been weaned on surface details. Simons solution was to marry the two approaches: on the one hand, a slew of jackets, some blouson and oversized, others snugly fitted, cropped or sleeveless, on the other, a plethora of appliquéd badges, metallic jacquards and chiffon hems. Some experiments were outstanding, such as the diagonally pleated skirts, the beaded wisteria that tumbled down the backs of evening coats and the traditional Dior Bar Jacket, here revamped with what looked like detachable peplums. Others, such as the hybrid shorts-cum-pleated mini skirts, were less successful.
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